How to Use Natural Henna to Color Gray Hair

Because I feel that I look older with gray hair, I want to color it.  Currently, the hair on the front half of my head is covered with what they call “salt and pepper“ - almost and equal blending of brown and gray hair.   The back half of my hair is around 90% brown with just 10% gray.

Conventional hair dyes contain many chemicals.  Some of these chemicals can be carcinogenic (cancer causing).  One of the chemicals for brown hair dye is the chemical p-phenylenediamine, known as “ppd” for short is a potential allergen and a possible carcinogen.  So I decided to look for more natural ways to color my hair.

before henna application - gray and bleached hair

In my quest to find the right healthful coloring for my brunette and gray hair, I tried “body art quality” (BAQ) henna.  It works very well for me and I have beautiful color results.

The color is amazing - the reflective highlights are fantastic.  It also coats my unruly hair and makes it feel softer and act more manageable - and no frizzies either.

after henna application - in the sun

after henna application - in the shade

The only problem is that it takes around 5 hours for my gray hair to pick up the color.  This is a very long time for me and I consider it a disadvantage.  I really have to set a day aside to color my hair with this method.  However, I do really love the color.  I tried this about 6 times on my hair.  I would only have to do it about once every 6 weeks.  However, another problem arose - seeing I was leaving the henna on for 5 hours, I developed an allergic response to it - my scalp became itchy!!  The itchies would last for about 5 days, and then subside.  I may go back to this method sometime in the future, but I’m not sure I can handle the itching.

The Type of Henna to Use

Years ago, I had tried a few store bought henna mixes that were supposed to cover gray and they just didn’t work for me.  So this time, I did a bit of research to find out which ones work best and are the healthiest.

The best henna to use is called BAQ (Body Art Quality) henna - it has the highest dye content.  This is what they use to paint designs on skin and hands for weddings or celebrations in the Middle East, northern Africa and Asia.  I found lots of information at www.Mehandi.com - the history of henna, the different strengths per country, how to select it, how much to use, and how to apply it for best results.  They supply henna that is low in pesticides and contaminants, so I ordered my henna through them as well.

Henna has a reputation for being impossible to re-color over with convention dye products.  However - BAQ henna will color over all types of previously applied dye products.  You can also go back to dying your hair with conventional dye products without having to wait until your hair grows out.  It will not stain your skin - you don’t have to worry about drip spots on your forehead or neck.  The only thing it will stain is fingernails - so wear latex or plastic gloves whenever applying the henna.

Choose your Color

Henna products will not lighten hair, only darken hair.  Using straight “red” henna will turn gray hair a bright red - which is not so desirable for me.  So I decided to go with an overall dark reddish-brown color.  I could have gone with a medium brown or a dark brown hair color instead, but I do like some red.    If you have lighter hair, you can also go with a dark yellow color, or a light brown color.  To achieve these different colors, you mix the henna with other herbs (indigo, alma, or cassia) in different proportions.

The colors are:

• • Henna - red
  
  
  • Indigo - black
  
  
  • Alma - makes a cooler brown color when mixed with henna and indigo
  
  
  • Cassia - makes a pale yellow on white or blonde hair
  • 
    

Preparing the Henna for Use

The difference from using the store bought pre-mixed henna, is that there is a bit of work to do.  Henna takes 12-24 hours to release its dye - you just make it up and use it right away or it won’t work.

For my short hair I used:

Part 1: Henna Mix

• 
  
  
  
  • 7.5 Tbl of Yemen henna (Yemen henna covers gray very well)
  
  
  • 1 tsp of ground ginger
  
  
  • Around 1 c. of orange juice
  
  
  • Plastic bowl (no metal)
  
  
  • Wooden or plastic mixing spoon

• I chose to use Orange Juice because you need something acidic to have the henna release the dye.  Don’t use vinegar - it will make the henna STINK.  You could use Lemon Juice - however I thought this may be too acidic for my scalp.  The Orange Juice was a good choice for me.  The henna mix can still be smelly, so the ginger is used to help mask the smell.


• Place the henna and the ginger in the plastic bowl and mix well.  Then gradually mix in the orange juice, checking the consistency as you go along.  You are looking to get a mix around cake frosting consistency - something easy to apply to your head that won‘t run down your neck.   Try to get as many of the large lumps out of the mix as possible.  The smaller lumps will miraculously disappear overnight!  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let sit overnight in a warm place.


• The next morning you will notice that the henna mix is not bright green anymore -but has taken on a darker color - that means the dye has released.  If it has not darkened - you have to wait longer!


• Okay, now that you have your henna “released”, you can mix up your Indigo - indigo’s coloring effect only lasts about one hour, so you need to mix it up just before you use it.

Part 2: Indigo Mix

• 
  
  
  
  • 7.5 Tbl of Indigo
  
  
  • 1 tsp GingerAround
  
  
  • 1 cup of water

• Mix the ginger and indigo together in a bowl, gradually add water and mix it in until the mix has a consistency of cake frosting.


• Next: blend your Indigo mix together with your henna mix  and stir thoroughly until totally blended because you want the dye to be uniform when applied to your hair.  Now you are ready to go!

How to Use:

• 
  
  • Plastic or latex gloves
  
  
  • Plastic wrap
  
  
  • Bath towel (use an old one in case of staining)
  
  
  • Some paper towels (for messes)

• Put on your plastic or latex gloves.  Using your hands, apply the frosting mix to your hair starting at the roots in front.  Cover all of your hair well.


• Pile your hair on top of your head.


• Use the plastic wrap and wrap all of your head and hair with it.


• Put a towel over your head now to keep everything warm.


• Now wait for 1 or more hours.  (I have to wait 5 hours for my gray hair to color, so I settle down to read.)


• Note that the henna has a cooling effect on your scalp - this is normal.

When you are ready to take off the henna:

• Wear your gloves again, mix a little water into your hair to soften the dried henna mix and start rinsing until the water runs clear.


• You can wash your hair right away.


• Then, I always use my own conditioning rinse of 1 TBL apple cider vinegar to 4 ounces of water. Vinegar and apple cider vinegar also has the ability to lock in vegetable made coloring.


• Because there is sometimes a lingering smell, I then rinse my hair with a few drops of lavender essential oil  mixed in with 4 ounces of water - this really works.

Results:

A beautiful reddish-brown hair color with great red hightlights!  See before and after pictures above.